Penhaligon's Portraits Marks Decade with Royal Academy Show

Penhaligon's is marking the tenth anniversary of its Portraits fragrance collection with a three-day exhibition at London's Royal Academy of Arts. The event, titled 'The Who’s Who of London', launched on 18 September 2026 and presents the latest Portraits scent alongside a preview of a new intense range.

According to Thomas James, President of Niche, Wellness & Skincare at parent company Puig, the Portraits collection has been key for the brand. He told TheIndustry.beauty it opened doors to new markets and connected with many people. The fictional aristocratic family and its stories, launched in 2016, moved away from ingredient-led presentations common in niche perfumery at the time.

The Royal Academy Exhibition

The immersive exhibition transforms the characters and relationships of the Portraits universe into physical spaces at Burlington House. A Portraits Gallery details the identities and scents of the fictional family, while a decadent Dining Room depicts the aftermath of a scandalous gathering. A dedicated installation introduces the newest character, the Baroness.

The event also features a gift shop carrying the collection, limited-edition items, and a new coffee-table book. The Royal Academy setting intentionally connects the activation to Penhaligon's British heritage and its Royal Warrant from King Charles III. James stated that physical presence in an iconic London space is a key step towards building resonance in the shifting luxury market.

Introducing The Manoeuvres of the Baroness

The exhibition debuts the newest Portraits fragrance, The Manoeuvres of the Baroness. Perfumer Daphné Bugey, who also created the early characters Lady Blanche and the Duke, developed the scent. The character is described as the family's behind-the-scenes strategist.

Bugey was briefed on the Baroness's personality and surroundings, not a specific ingredient. Her interpretation drew inspiration from the Château de Chantilly, referencing both lace and cream. The resulting composition combines orange blossom, Chantilly, mandarin, incense, and sandalwood, with peppery and woody facets intended to reflect authority.

"It's not your typical boring floral gourmand," James said. "It's a floral with a lot of character." He noted the sandalwood and pepper notes have also attracted male customers. The fragrance is presented in a 75ml bottle with a golden gazelle-head cap.

Portraits Intense and Future Narratives

Alongside the Baroness, the exhibition offers an advance look at Portraits Intense. This new range reworks four established scents from the collection through darker compositions. The brand confirms the Portraits narrative will continue beyond its first decade, with James arguing the fictional family provides enough material for future fragrances.

Growth Strategy and Market Focus

The collection has been instrumental in building Penhaligon's presence in the Middle East and Asia-Pacific. In China, scents like Luna and The Coveted Duchess Rose are among the strongest sellers. James emphasized that consumers in that market demand verifiable proof of heritage, which the brand's 155-year archive provides.

In its UK home market, the brand focuses on direct-to-consumer sales through its own boutiques, like its refurbished Regent Street flagship. This strategy offers greater control over storytelling and service. The brand aims to use Portraits to attract younger customers while continuing to serve clients loyal to heritage scents like Blenheim Bouquet and Sartorial.

The Who’s Who of London exhibition runs at the Royal Academy of Arts until 20 September 2026.