Vintage Weil de Weil 1971: A Bitter Green
A review of the discontinued 1971 fragrance Weil de Weil, a green floral chypre composed under Jean-Pierre Weil's direction, featuring galbanum, indolic
Weil de Weil, a green floral chypre released in 1971, is a discontinued fragrance from the historic House of Weil. According to a review by Ida Meister for Cafleurebon, the perfume was likely composed by Jean-Pierre Weil himself, though specific records from that year do not name a perfumer.
The House of Weil originated from a family of French furriers. Alfred Weil opened the Les Fourrures Weil fur salon in Paris in 1912 with his brothers. The house was among the first luxury furriers to create 'parfum de fourrure,' scents designed to mask the animalic odor of pelts. Perfume production began in 1927 with fragrances like Zibeline and Chinchilla Royal.
The Weil family, who were Jewish, fled to the United States during the Second World War occupation of France, returning in 1946. The house later created perfumes with the aid of figures like Claude Fraysse and Bertrand Duchaufour.
The 1971 Fragrance Landscape
Weil de Weil debuted in a year rich with significant releases, though few from that era remain in production. The reviewer notes that the only major surviving fragrances from 1971 are Chanel No. 19 by Henri Robert and Clinique Aromatics Elixir by Bernard Chant. Other notable releases that year included Lancôme's Sikkim, Empreinte de Courrèges, and Balenciaga's Ho Hang.
A Composition of Bitter Beauty
The reviewer describes Weil de Weil as a 'bitter beauty,' a sophistication echoed by master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena's reported statement that 'to smell bitter is to smell intelligent.' While some have called it a 'galbanum bomb,' the review finds this description not entirely accurate, instead noting a kinship with some of Germaine Cellier's work.
The opening presents an edgy zest of tangerine. Galbanum is distinctly prominent throughout. The heart features a host of indolic florals: a measured touch of neroli, the leathery animalic floralcy of narcissus, a wisp of hyacinth, and honeysuckle and sweet acacia with honeyed and indolic facets. The richly banana-like tone of ylang-ylang adds another animalic layer. Rose de mai and muguet (lily-of-the-valley) round out the floral composition.
Vintage Base Materials
The base of Weil de Weil utilizes materials common in 1971 but now often restricted or avoided. These include nitro musks, unrestricted oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, and natural civet. Vetiver acts as a perfect adjuvant, imparting a smoky grassiness to the primarily chypric base. The reviewer, who owns both parfum de toilette and parfum versions, is aware of the fragrance's overall charm and witty personality.
The reviewer positions Weil de Weil as falling somewhere between the verdant gentleness of Chanel No. 19 and the provocatively trenchant Bandit de Piguet and Jean-Louis Scherrer (a 1979 Weil fragrance), calling it more balanced and relatively well-behaved.
Notes and a Postscript on Vintage Formulations
The fragrance's notes are tangerine, neroli, galbanum, hyacinth, narcissus, acacia farnesiana, honeysuckle, lily-of-the-valley, ylang-ylang, rose de mai, vetiver, civet, oakmoss, sandalwood, and musk.
In a postscript, the reviewer cautions against judging vintage perfumes like Weil de Weil solely by modern ethical and safety standards, as many components are now considered unethically sourced, unsafe, or restricted by IFRA. The reviewer believes there is much to be learned from classics without detracting from modern marvels. The sample reviewed is from the reviewer's personal collection.
