Independent Perfumers Detail Bespoke Fragrance Creation

Four independent perfumers have detailed their processes for creating bespoke fragrances for individual clients. The insights come from Akuura Kulak of Aroma Sanctum Perfumes, Neil Morris of Neil Morris Fragrances, Whitney Swales of Wit & West, and Anjali Vandemark of Anjali Perfumes.

The Perfumers and Their Beginnings

The perfumers began their bespoke services at different times and for varied reasons. Akuura Kulak started offering bespoke creations when she opened her Salem, Massachusetts retail store in 1996. She wanted to provide unique scents for clients with chemical sensitivities. Neil Morris began in 2007, inspired by the idea of bottling a person's scented memories. Whitney Swales initiated the Wit & West Bespoke Experience in 2019, prior to her brand's 2021 launch. Anjali Vandemark, who launched her brand in 2021, moved into bespoke work after scaling her operations, finding the collaborative aspect rewarding.

Initiating the Client Process

The bespoke journey starts with an in-depth conversation. Neil Morris calls his initial phone interview "The Listening Before The Fragrance." Akuura Kulak asks many questions, focusing on what scents a client enjoys or hates to determine their preferred fragrance family. Anjali Vandemark discusses what the client wants to achieve and explores their feelings about scent, often creating a mood board. Whitney Swales has clients complete a detailed questionnaire covering preferred ingredients, olfactory families, and existing favorite fragrances.

Consultations are often held virtually, though in-person meetings are possible for local clients. Kulak, who operates online and via mail order, noted the added challenge of working long-distance by mailing samples back and forth.

Client Motivations and Pandemic Impact

Client reasons for commissioning a bespoke scent vary widely. Some seek a daily wear fragrance, while others want a scent for a special occasion like a wedding or anniversary. Vandemark's projects range from artistic installations and commercial perfumes to personal commemorations like graduations.

The pandemic significantly increased demand. Kulak reported a huge surge during 2020, with panic online ordering and subsequent busy in-store traffic. Vandemark noted that pandemic-related anosmia heightened general awareness of scent's importance in daily life and memory.

Working with Notes and Memories

Clients often have specific ingredient preferences or scent memories. Morris's questionnaire asks clients to rate specific scents on a scale. Vandemark stated clients usually know which notes they dislike and have a general idea of what they want, frequently mentioning perfumes linked to fond memories from their past. Kulak finds some clients are very specific, while others only describe a desired vibe, which is more challenging.

Formula Ownership and Final Adjustments

Formula ownership is typically retained by the perfumer. Morris, Kulak, and Swales stated the formulas are proprietary to the individual client, though Kulak may share a formula with permission. Vandemark retains the formulas and copyright unless specified otherwise in a contract.

The number of modifications required to finalize a fragrance varies. Morris initially sends three samples; if none are perfect, he refines the closest option into three new versions. Vandemark estimates an average of five to six modifications, noting the first is the hardest as it translates the initial concept into a functional perfume with proper projection and longevity.